The true-blue menu draws hordes of local and visiting cognoscenti to this cozy downtown bistro mere blocks from the major hotels. The gently cluttered dining room is filled with Art Nouveau posters, wood paneling with a soft patina, and glass panels that provide a sense of privacy. Waiters soften absolute correctness with a local sense of humor. Many of the house specialties—boudin noir, rillettes, foie gras, andouillettes, pistachio-filled sausage—are made
on-site, and the tender filet de boeuf barely requires a knife. And save space for dessert—the silky crème caramel may be the best in town.