It is rare to find a line of people waiting for a table anywhere in Geneva, so the fact that it's commonplace outside this bustling wood-paneled Parisian import means the tender strips of grilled steak drenched in herb-based sauce maison (house sauce) are a true cut above. A crisp green salad sprinkled with walnuts, robust house wine, and thin, golden fries complete the only option on the menu; don't worry, there's a second portion on the way.
Reviewed by Clayoquot from Vancouver, Canada on 1/9/07
For the traditional steak-frites (steak-and-chips) dish that you'd expect at a Parisian brasserie, you can't beat Le Relais de l'Entrecôte. It is in fact an import from Paris, and has two other locations there, one in the 6th arrondissement, off the boulevard Saint-Germain, and the other in the 8th arrondissement, about four blocks off the Champs-Élysées. (And the owner's sister has a place of her own in Paris called Le Relais de Venise, in the 17th arrondissement at Porte Maillot. It's virtually identical.)
What they've done is to take the humble steak-frites and raise it to a fine art. The sirloin steak is succulent and tender, and it's perfectly cooked (at least it is if you order it bleu or saignant or à point; but if you order it "well done" (shame on you!), it usually still has some pink colouring). And the butter sauce they put on it, which contains a little of everything from tarragon to garlic to rosemary to anchovy, is heavenly. The chips too are perfect. And the main course is served in two halves, so the second half arrives as hot as the first. Then come the desserts, with all the ice cream and chocolate sauce and whipped cream one could wish for. The whole meal is an utter artery-clogger, I suppose, but what a way to go!
(Wikipedia has an entry that tells the restaurant's history, so you can read more there.)
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