It's hard to get more Genevois than this: filets de perches, longeole, choucroute, and game dominate the menu; service can be somewhat frank; the dining room transfers to the sidewalk in summer; and the location, at the political heart of the Vieille Ville, guarantees a loyal, smoky crowd of civil servants. Choose the Dégustation Genevois menu for a guided culinary tour with wine; the kitchen closes at 11:30 PM.
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