Roberto

Roberto Review

Roberto Carugati, still spry in his nineties, attempts to "stay out of the way" these days and let his daughter, Marietta, oversee the red-gold dining room he opened in 1945, but don't be surprised to see him drop in. The easy formality he perfected continues to lure lawyers, bankers, politicians, and fashionable Italians for melt-in-the-mouth gnocchi with butter and sage, grilled sole, vitello tonnato, and risotto with saffron served from shining copper and silver pots. Unusual and rare Italian wines keep conversation flowing into the night.