Il Lago

Il Lago Review

Risotto with lobster and basil, risotto with calamari and champagne, and tortelli with cheese, lemon, and mint are some of the northern Italian creations Carrara native and unabashed lover of pasta Marco Garfagnini has road-tested on diners and then added to his menu. Set in the Four Seasons des Bergues hotel, the green- and blue-tinted dining room, split in half by gilt French doors, is decorated with brocades, chandeliers, and sweeping hand-painted scenery—if seared scallops with wild mushrooms in a shellfish reduction or braised veal cheek with semolina gnocchi and asparagus were served at Versailles, this is what it might be like. In season, there's a gorgeous sidewalk terrace complete with olive trees and aromatic herbs.