Aperitifs are on the house, steak tartare is mixed to your taste, and waiters wear long aprons and solemn expressions as they bring out the côte de boeuf (rib-steak) to be viewed before it's carved. Cheeky cow posters, figurines, and paintings add a sly hilarity to the Art Nouveau woodwork and stained-glass ceiling; the homemade chocolate-pear tart is decadently serious.
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