Swords & Soup

Swords & Soup

Geneva's Escalade is a celebration of victory and independence. In 1536 Geneva formally adopted the Protestant faith and rid itself of the Catholic bishop-princes who had ruled it since the 12th century. This set up a conflict with the Duke of Savoy, who controlled most of the region around Geneva and hoped to make the city his Catholic capital north of the Alps.

Tensions rose, and on the night of December 11-12, 1602, the duke sent men to scale the city walls with ladders. His plans went awry when the city's entire population turned out to fight. One resourceful housewife wielded a marmite (pot) of hot soup to devastating effect—an act commemorated each year with cauldrons made of chocolate.

Geneva's 18 dead are honored with an elaborate parade, period outfits and weapons are worn in the Vieille Ville, and costumed children go door to door singing "Cé qu'è laîno," Geneva's victory song.