A Good Walk: Vieille Ville
Stroll through Parc des Bastions from its Place Neuve entrance. Geneva's university (on your right) is descended from Calvin's groundbreaking academy; the Monument de la Réformation spreads along the park wall to your left. Access Rue de la Croix-Rouge, then Promenade de la Treille, from steps to the monument's right.
Past the Marronnier Officiel (Official Chestnut Tree) is the Hôtel de Ville, seat of Geneva's cantonal government. By the statue of statesman Charles Pictet de Rochemont, head right through the 18th-century portico, then right again at No. 2 rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville into the government complex courtyard.
Across the street, Maison Tavel is worth a stop. Turn right after leaving Maison Tavel, then right again into Grand-Rue. Espace Jean-Jacques Rousseau (No. 40), the philosopher's birthplace, features an audiovisual overview of his life. By No. 28, turn left into Ruelle du Sautier, which empties out by the Eglise Saint-Germain. Follow Rue des Granges; the 18th-century rooms of Fondation Zoubov (No. 2) can be visited on weekday afternoons.
Continue through Place du Grand-Mézel, Geneva's 15th-century Jewish ghetto. To the left, Rue de la Cité connects the Old Town with its ancient river crossing. Head back up Grand-Rue and turn left down Rue de la Pélisserie, which becomes Rue Jean-Calvin; the Musée Barbier-Mueller is here. Calvin and his family lived across from No. 11 from 1543 until his death in 1564.
Proceed via Rue Otto-Barblan to Cour Saint-Pierre, home to the Musée International de la Réforme, Cathédrale St-Pierre, and the Site Archéologique. This has been Geneva's spiritual center since the time of Celtic goddesses. Take Rue du Cloître to the Reformation museum. Upon leaving the museum, turn left then right into Rue de l'Evêché behind the cathedral. The chapel straight ahead is the Auditoire de Calvin. Back at Cour Saint-Pierre, you'll see the entrance to the Site Archéologique to your right. Finish with the view from the cathedral towers.
Via Rue de l'Evêché, go to Rue des Barrières; ascend the stairs leading to Terrasse Agrippa-d'Aubigné for a terrific view of the cathedral and 15th-century Madeleine church below.
Then head down the ramp to the right into Rue de la Fontaine. Walk up past the Lutheran Church to Place du Bourg-de-Four and into Rue Etienne-Dumont.
Continue straight to Place Franz-Liszt—after the composer, who lived here—and turn left onto Promenade de Saint-Antoine. Descend the steps marked Site Archéologique to stroll through the massive remains of Geneva's defense walls, then ride the elevator up and cross the bridge to the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire.
You can't miss the cupolas crowning the 19th-century Eglise Russe, which may be visited. Follow Rue François Le Fort to Rue Munier-Romilly, where the Fondation Baur museum is the last building on the right.
