Music is a leitmotif along walls studded with opera posters, paintings, programs, scores, photos, and clippings; there are also low ceilings, wooden beams, gilt mirrors, velvet drapes, stone walls, and a newly renovated balcony with three working fireplaces. The real star, however, is the menu, which sees cold-weather ingredients like truffles, cream, and polenta transition to tomatoes, basil, and fennel as the weather warms up. Rack of lamb with a caponata of eggplant,
onions, capers, olives, and tomatoes is a year-round favorite. The wine cellar, visible through glass doors off the dining room, ranges all over Italy.