Time moves a little more slowly here amid the civilized elegance of chandeliers and china teapots. Picture windows face the train station; gilt ceiling details, grapevine motifs, and striped banquettes warm up the wood paneling; and the day's papers hang from lampposts at discreet intervals between tables. The menu changes seasonally, but the classic French theme is constant—expect tartares and minestrone in summer, cassoulet or veal liver in winter, and Jack's giant
Wienerschnitzel year-round. There's an excellent selection of Swiss wines and expensive but top-flight French reds.