A Good Walk: Bern
Bern's downtown is not large, but it can be steep, and there's a lot to absorb. To begin the walk, exit the main hall of the Hauptbahnhof, following signs for the Altstadt.
On the far side of Spitalgasse is the Heiliggeistkirche. Duck inside for a peek at its colorful baroque ceiling, then follow the trams left past the cheerful Pfeiferbrunnen (Bagpiper Fountain) to the first intersection, Bärenplatz.
Keep following the trams (carefully) through the Käfigturm, a 17th-century prison tower built on the site of the city's 13th-century main gate, and continue down Marktgasse. At the end, follow the trams to the left to the Kindlifresserbrunnen, atop which an ogre (most likely a Fasnacht character) sits munching on several small children.
Dominating the town center is the mighty Zytglogge, Bern's original western gate and communal horological reference point since 1530. Continue down Kramgasse, the medieval main street. The painted figures and insignia above some houses indicate their connections to specific guilds; others date from the city's 18th-century height of prosperity.
At No. 49, the Einsteinhaus is where a young man named Albert struggled to make his name in physics. Take nearby Kramgasse (called Gerechtigkeitsgasse from this point on) and continue down the hill. The Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen (Justice Fountain), considered the jewel of Bern's fountains, depicts the emperor, the pope, the sultan, and the mayor of Bern.
As you pass the Hotel zum Goldenen Adler, the 18th-century successor to the city's oldest guesthouse, veer left where the main street becomes Nydeggasse and aim downhill into Nydeggstalden.
The Nydeggkirche, set back from the road on your right, occupies the site of Duke Berchtold's original fortress and thus represents the oldest part of the city.
From the church courtyard, head for the far end of the church and take the covered Burgtreppe stairs down to Mattenenge, turning left then right when you get to the bottom.
You will be facing Bern's oldest river crossing, the Untertorbrücke, or Lower Gate Bridge, with the Läuferbrunnen (Messenger Fountain) and its bear-human duo sheltering under a tree to your left.
Cross the swift, blue-green Aare and head left past the Landhaus to the paved footpath marked "Rosengarten" and zigzag to the right on Lerberstrasse. When you reach Aargauerstalden, you will be rewarded with a fetching view of the Altstadt. From here, head back down the hill to the traffic circle and cut directly across it to the BearPark.
Walk straight through the carefully tended Rosengarten to see the best view of all—the city's bridges, rooftops, and the tree-covered Gurten, Bern's local hill.
