This 150-year-old landmark has been tastefully renovated throughout to bring out the best of its original features, including elaborate gilt-edged mirrors and stucco ceiling moldings. Cube furnishings in dark leather or red velvet bring it roaring into the 21st century. The bar is split between the reception lounge, where a pianist plays each evening, and the comfortable restaurant. In the guest rooms, duvets billow over bed frames in some of the cushier rooms and suites. Standard rooms are on the small side.