Although it lacks the gilt and glitter of Zürich and the Latin grace of Geneva, in many ways Basel (Bâle in French) is more sophisticated than either. Situated at the frontier between two of Europe's most assertive personalities—France and Germany—and tapped directly into the artery of the Rhine, the city has grown remarkably urbane, cosmopolitan, and worldly wise, yet is delightfully eccentric
Its imagination has been fed by centuries of intellectual input: Basel is host to Switzerland's oldest university (1460) and patron to some of the country's—and the world's—finest minds. As a northern center of humanist thought and art, it nurtured the painters Konrad Witz and Hans Holbein the Younger, as well as the great Dutch scholar Erasmus. And it was Basel's visionary lord mayor Johann Rudolf Wettstein who, at the end of the Thirty Years' War, negotiated Switzerland's groundbreaking—and lasting—neutrality.
Each day more than 30,000 French and German commuters cross into Basel, working at leading banks and pharmaceutical firms. Yet Basel's population remains modest, hovering just above 190,000; its urban center lies gracefully along the Rhine, with no building so tall as to block another building's view of the cathedral's twin spires. Two blocks from the heart of the thriving shopping district you can walk along medieval residential streets cloaked in perfect, otherworldly silence to Münsterhügel (cathedral mount), where the Romanesque-Gothic cathedral offers superb views over the Altstadt and the Rhine all the way to the surrounding mountains.
The high number of museums per capita is a reflection of Basel's priorities: the city has more than 30, including the world-class Kunstmuseum, the Museum Tinguely, and the Fondation Beyeler. As high culture breeds good taste, Basel has some of the most varied, even quirky, shopping in Switzerland, all within walking distance. But you can still get a beer and a bratwurst here: natives primarily speak German or their own local version of Schwyzerdütsch, called Baseldytsch.