Walking Tour: Old Town

Walking Tour: Old Town

Start at the waterfront edge of Kungsträdgården. Stand for a moment with the park behind you and look out. This is one of the most beautiful views of Stockholm, especially if the sun is shining. Walk across Strömsbron to the magnificent Kungliga Slottet, where you can see the changing of the guard at noon every day -- a spectacle which, although formal, lacks the cold stiffness of London's changing of the guard, reflecting the relaxed formality that pervades much of Swedish life. Walk up the sloping cobblestone drive called Slottsbacken and bear right past the Obelisk (which was built by King Gustav III in honor of the people of Stockholm) to find the main entrance to the palace. Stockholm's 15th-century Gothic cathedral, Storkyrkan, stands at the top of Slottsbacken, but its entrance is at the other end, on Trångsund.

Following Källargränd from the Obelisk or Trångsund from Storkyrkan, you will reach the small square called Stortorget, marvelously atmospheric amid magnificent old merchants' houses. Stockholm's Börshuset (Stock Exchange), which currently houses the Nobelmuseet, fronts the square. You are right in the heart of old Stockholm now. Prepare for an onslaught to the senses, as history, culture, and a dash of old Europe come thick and fast around here.

Walk past Svartmangatan's many ancient buildings, including the Tyska Kyrkan, or German Church, with its resplendent oxidized copper spire and airy interior. Continue along Svartmangatan and take a right on Tyska Stallplan to Prästgatan, and just to your left will be Mårten Trotzigs Gränd; this lamplit alley stairway leads downhill to Järntorget. From here, take Västerlånggatan back north across Gamla Stan, checking out the pricey fashion boutiques, galleries, and souvenir shops along the way.

Cut down Storkyrkobrinken to the 17th-century Dutch baroque Riddarhuset. A short walk takes you over Riddarholmsbron to Riddarholmen -- Island of Knights -- on which stands Riddarholmskyrkan. Also on Riddarholmen is the white 17th-century palace that houses the Svea Hovrätt. Returning across Riddarholmsbron, take Myntgatan back toward Kungliga Slottet and turn left onto Stallbron and cross the bridge. You'll then pass through the refurbished stone Riksdagshuset on Helgeandsholmen, Holy Ghost Island. Another short bridge returns you to the mainland and Drottninggatan; take a right onto Fredsgatan and walk until you reach Medelhavsmuseet, on the left, just before Gustav Adolfs Torg. Right there on the square is the Dansmuseet.

The Operan occupies the waterfront between Gustav Adolfs Torg and Karl XII's Torg (part of Kungsträdgården). A little farther along, on Södra Blasieholmshamn, a host of tour boats dock in front of the stately Grand Hotel. Pass the Grand and visit the Nationalmuseum. Cross the footbridge to the island of Skeppsholmen, a hotspot for museum lovers. Here you will find the Östasiatiska Museet, with a fine collection of Buddhist art, the Moderna Museet, which is in the same complex that houses the Arkitekturmuseet. and, to the southwest, Svensk Form, a design museum. The adjoining island, Kastellholmen, is a pleasant place for a stroll, especially on a summer evening, when views of the Baltic harbor and the lights of Djurgården's parks are served up with a warm, salty breeze and the promise of another fine day tomorrow.

Timing

Allow three hours for the walk, double that if you want to tour the various parts of the palace. The Nationalmuseum and Östasiatiska Museet will take up to an hour each to view. Note that Kungliga Slottet is closed Monday off-season, and Arkitekturmuseet, Dansmuseet, Medelhavsmuseet, Moderna Museet, Nationalmuseum, Svensk Form, and Östasiatiska Museet are always closed Monday. The Riddarhuset is open weekdays only; off-season, hit the Riddarholmskyrkan on a Wednesday or weekend.