This Andalusian deep-fry specialist, decorated with hanging hams and garlic, is one of the happiest places in Madrid. The staff is jovial, and the house specialty, trucha a la truchana (trout stuffed with ham and ample garlic) is a work of art. Other star entrées are chopitos (baby squid), pollo al ajillo (chunks of chicken in crisped garlic), and espárragos trigueros (wild asparagus). Jarras (pitchers) of chilled Valdepeñas seem to function like laughing gas in this magic little bistro. The Nuñez de Arce branch, near the Hotel Reina Victoria, is usually less crowded.
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