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Valle de los Caidos Review

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Valle de los Caídos

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Phone: 91/890-5611

Category: Religious Sites
Location: Valle de los Caídos

Write a review | Avg. member rating: 2.0/5

Fodor's Review:

Ranked as a not-to-be-missed visit until the death of Generalísimo Francisco Franco in 1975, this massive monument to fascism's victory over democracy (religion's victory over communism to some) in the 1936-39 Spanish civil war has become something of an anachronism in modern democratic Spain. It's now relegated to a rallying point for the extreme right on key dates, such as the July 18 commemoration of the military uprising of 1936 or the November 20 death of Franco. The Valley of the Fallen is just a few minutes north of El Escorial. A lovely pine forest leads up to a massive basilica carved out of a solid granite mountain. Topped with a cross nearly 500 feet high (accessible by elevator), the basilica holds the tombs of both General Franco and José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the fascist Spanish Falange, but also the bodies of nearly 34,000 Spaniards (of both sides) who died during the civil war, and whose remains were removed from communal graves and buried here between 1959 and 1983.

The monument was built with the forced labor of postwar Republican prisoners and dedicated, rather disingenuously, to all who died in the three-year conflict. Tapestries of the Apocalypse add to the terrifying air inside as every footstep resounds off the polished marble floors and stone walls. An eerie midnight Mass is held here on Easter Sunday, the granite peak lit by candlelight.

To get here by public transportation, take the 3:15 PM bus from the Herranz station at San Lorenzo de El Escorial. The bus makes a return drive at 5:30 (the bus plus the visit is EUR 8.30). If you go by car, note that the adjacent Benedictine monastery has a hospedería (guesthouse) and a restaurant serving good, inexpensive food.

Cost: Basilica EUR 5; combined with guided tour of El Escorial EUR 11; combined with unguided tour of El Escorial EUR 10
Open: Apr.-Sept., Tues.-Sun. 10-6; Oct.-Mar., Tues.-Sun. 10-5

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Member Reviews and Ratings

Reviewed by kcaJ from Atlanta on 10/30/09
As an earlier reviewer commented, The Valley of the Fallen is indeed kind of creepy. However (and as related to me by someone who lived under Franco), there are two ways to appreciate this site.

First, ignore the political/civil aspects and just appreciate it for the work it is (engineering marvel?). And it IS a really impressive piece of work.

Second, recognize the who, how, and why it was built; then shake it off and enjoy the view.

If you have a morning to fill, combine The Valley of the Fallen with the Monestary at El Escorial.

Member Rating: 3.0
Ratings details: Experience: 3.0 Ease: 3.0 Value: 3.0 Don't Miss: 3.0

Reviewed by bachslunch from US on 2/5/08
This was major league not worth the trip. Big, ugly, and imposing neo-Fascist style architecture and statuary with Grand Guignol Revelations-type tapestries. Creepy and unpleasant in general. Only pluses -- the ride goes through some pleasing parkland and the view is good from both the front of the building and from the cross area at top.