Madrid's museum of modern art is in a converted hospital, the classical granite austerity of which is somewhat relieved (or ruined, depending on your point of view) by the playful pair of glass elevator shafts on its facade. Three separate buildings joined by a common vault were added to the original complex in a renovation that was completed at the end of 2005. The first contains an art bookshop and a public library, the second a center for contemporary exhibitions, and the third an auditorium and restaurant/cafeteria managed by Sergi Arola of Gastro. The latter, although expensive, makes an excellent stop for a refreshment, be it a cup of tea or coffee, a snack, or even a cocktail.
The collection focuses on Spain's three great modern masters—Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, and Joan Miró—and has contributions from Juan Gris, Jorge Oteiza, Pablo Gargallo, Julio Gonzalez, Eduardo Chillida, and Antoni Tàpies. Take the elevator to the second floor to see the heavy hitters, then to the fourth floor for the rest of the permanent collection. The other floors have traveling exhibits. Exhibition rooms are numbered 1 to 45, beginning chronologically with the turn-of-the-20th-century birth of Spain's modern movement on the second floor and continuing to contemporary artists such as Eduardo Chillida in Rooms 42 and 43 on the fourth floor. The free English-language guide-booklet is excellent, as are the plastic-covered notes at each display.
The museum's showpiece is Picasso's Guernica, in the center hall on the second floor. The huge black-and-white canvas depicts the horror of the Nazi Condor Legion's bombing of the ancient Basque town of Gernika in 1937, during the Spanish civil war. The work is something of a national shrine. Guernica did not reach Madrid until 1981, as Picasso had stipulated in his will that the painting return to Spain only after democracy was restored.
The room in front of Guernica has surrealist works, with six canvases by Miró. Room 10 belongs to Salvador Dalí, hung in three ámbitos (areas). The first has the young artist experimenting with styles, as in his classical landscape Paisaje de Cadaqués and his cubist self-portrait; the second shows the evolving painter of the Buñuel portrait and portraits of the artist's sister; and the third includes the full-blown surrealist work The Great Masturbator (1929), and The Enigma of Hitler (1939), with its ghostly umbrella and broken, dripping telephone.
The rest of the museum is devoted to more recent art, including works by Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida and paintings by Barcelona artist Antoni Tàpies.
Reviewed by kcaJ from Atlanta on 10/29/09
Visited the Sofia with 3 generations of family (ages 70 to 7); all found more than a few exhibits and installations to enjoy.
Guernica (the "must-see") was overrun by viewers when we visited at opening (perhaps closer to closing the crowds might've been thinner). One thing about viewing Guernica..., we needed to secure a separate paper ticket at the main entrance to enter that specific exhibit. No extra cost; just extra waiting in line (note: we learned this the hard way, that is, the Madrid Card does not help you avoid this Guernica line [unlike many others, like the general admission line!]).
Don't miss the garden/courtyard. Nice greenry, fountains and sculptures! Also try to keep in mind that the Sofia was a large, functioning hospital: such a mindset can help one appreciate the exhibit spaces/lay-outs/renovations.
Reviewed by bachslunch from US on 1/31/08
Like most modern art museums, the collection is uneven, but the highlights are well worth it. Picasso's "Guernica" is fabulous, surrounded by preliminary sketches and studies. Also some choice Miro and Dali works as well as other good stuff. Definitely worth a visit.
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