One of the parador chain's most highly regarded hotels, this 15th-century masterpiece was once a royal hostel and hospital for sick pilgrims. Its mammoth baroque doorway gives way to austere courtyards of box hedge and simple fountains, and to rooms furnished with antiques, some with canopy beds. Dos Reis, the restaurant in the grand vaulted dining room, serves top-notch regional fare, including lonchas de pulpo (octopus with paprika and potato), foie gras, and
filloas de manzana y crema caramelizadas (apple-and-caramel-cream pancakes). The tapas bar, Enxebre, is lively and informal.