With a boisterous bar to set the tone and decibel level, this mesón (traditional tavern-restaurant) is definitely hospitable. The owner is devoted to maintaining traditional Castilian specialties while concocting innovations of his own, changing dishes with the seasons. The large, old-style, brightly lighted dining room is often packed, and the waiters are uncommonly friendly. Although it's a bit touristy, it's also popular with locals, and the cochinillo
(suckling pig) is delicious in any company.