Frómista

Take the small road south from Castrojeriz to Itero de la Vega and Boadillo del Camino to reach Frómista. Just before you arrive, the road crosses the Canal de Castilla, begun in 1753 with the dubious idea of linking Salamanca with the port of Santander—and never completed. The town of Frómista has four hospices for present-day pilgrims, and its architectural gem is the 1066 church of San Martín (Plaza San Martín s/n. Apr.-June and Oct. 1-15, daily 10-2 and 4:30-8; Oct. 16-Mar. 31, daily 10-2 and 3:30-6:30). Richly sculpted inside, it was part of a monastery in the 11th century, which might explain the geographical breathing room it still enjoys.