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This is Spain’s authentic heartland, bereft of touristy hamburger joints and filled instead with the country’s most traditional tavernas, which attract Spanish foodies from across the country. Some of the most renowned restaurants in this region are small and family-run, while a few new avant-garde spots in Extremadura serve up modern architecture as well as experimental fusion dishes.
La Ponderosa is a quintessential yet elevated Castilian bar where locals mingle at high volume while tossing back local wine and munching on well-priced seasonal delicacies like griddled wild asparagus, suckling lamb chops, and seared wild mushrooms. It's a standing-room-only joint, so if you want to sit, you'll have to come early and find a place on the terrace.
Decidedly modern, dependably delicious, and shockingly cheap, Tapas 2.0 might pull you back for a second meal. The cool ensaladilla rusa (tuna-and-potato salad) is one of the best in Spain; then there are more substantial dishes, like stewed broad beans with octopus and shrimp and saucy chicken cannelloni, all complemented by a wine list featuring unexpected pours like German Riesling. If you can't snag a table, pop around the corner to Tapas 3.0, its sister restaurant.
Bambú is two restaurants in one: there's a jovial basement tapas bar serving gargantuan tapas and beers, and then there's the far more sedate white-tablecloth dining room, whose alta cocina menu is as experimental as it is expensive. Both are worthwhile options; go with the vibe that suits you best.
This family-run bar and restaurant punches above its weight with market-driven tapas that reflect a sense of place. Spring for the stuffed foraged mushrooms or seared Sigüenza-style blood sausage.
Though every drink comes with a complimentary croqueta at this pocket-size bar frequented by locals, the crisp, gooey orbs are so succulent that you'll want to order a few extra. Be sure to sample the smoky cured beef cecina rendition.
Jeta—crackly, juicy fried pig snout sliced into bite-size pieces—is the raison d'être of this locals-oriented gem 1½ km (1 mile) north of the city center. Pair it with an ice-cold beer, and you've got the perfect aperitivo or late-night snack—for under €5.
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