For hearty dining and a certain amount of splashing around in hard cider, make this short excursion east of San Sebastián. Gigantic wooden barrels line the walls, and tables are piled with tortilla de bacalao (codfish omelet), txuleta de buey (beef chops), the smoky local sheep's-milk cheese from the town of Idiazabal, and, for dessert, walnuts and membrillo (quince jelly).
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