At a Glance
- traditional building (though modernized inside)
- comfortable beds
- family service
- the bells from the church across the way
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This rambling roadhouse, 7 km (4 miles) below Valdezcaray, La Rioja's best ski resort, is famous for its restaurants, El Portal, showcasing fine traditional cuisine engineered by Marisa Sánchez, and her son Francis Paniego's Bistrot Comilón. Marisa's patatas a la riojana (potatoes stewed with peppers and chorizo) are a classic, while Francis experiments with charcoal made from grapevine clippings and serves contemporary numbers such as spring fava beans and baby peas with potato soup. A new gastrobar called E-Tapas occupies the old lounge area, and Francis also oversees the Hotel Marqués de Riscal restaurant in Elciego, and the gastro-bar, Tondeluna, in Logroño. There's a choice of 3- or 4-star rooms, and package deals including meals. Staff are warm and engaging.
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