This rambling roadhouse in Ezcaray, 61 km (37 mi) southwest of Logroño, is 7 km (4 mi) below Valdezcaray, La Rioja's prime ski resort. Echaurren is famous for fine traditional cuisine ($$-$$$) engineered by Marisa Sanchez and the original creations by her son, Francis Paniego. Marisa's patatas a la riojana (potatoes stewed with peppers and chorizo) are as good as they get, and Francis, a youthful master chef with an immense future in the forefront of Spanish gastronomy, experiments with wood coals and aromas and runs the excellent Hotel Marqués de Riscal restaurant in Elciego. Rooms are comfortable and contemporary, and the staff and owners warm and engaging. Pros: Traditional building, comfortable beds, family service. Con: The bells from the church across the way.
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