Euskera for "in the wind," the Sheraton Bilbao restaurant—under the direction of chef José Miguel Olazabalaga—has in record time become one of the city's most respected dining establishments. Typically Bilbaino culinary classicism doesn't keep Mr. Olazabalaga from creating surprising reductions and contemporary interpretations of traditional dishes such as la marmita de chipirón, a stew of sautéed cuttlefish with a topping of whipped potatoes covering the sauce of squid ink.
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