This graceful mansion, the setting for one of Bilbao's finest restaurants, is 20 minutes from downtown on the subway, and then a seven-minute walk. At Jolastoki ("place to play" in Euskera), wild salmon from the Cares River; dark, red Bresse pigeon roasted in balsamic vinegar; lubina al vapor (steamed sea bass) as light as a soufflé; becada estofada a los nabos o flambeada al Armagnac (woodcock stuffed with turnips or flambéed in Armagnac); and encyclopedic
salads are all done to perfection. The red-fruit dessert includes 11 varieties with sorbet in raspberry-and-mint coulis. Afterward, take a walk through the fishing quarter or head for the beach.