Charming and cozy, this place is more than 100 years old, a Bilbao institution that's actually a series of nooks and crannies tucked into a fine food, wine, olive-oil, cheese, and ham emporium. It has become famous for its txuleta de buey (beef or ox chops). Let the affable owners size you up and bring on what you crave. The house wine is an excellent Crianza (two years in oak, one in bottle) from La Rioja, but the 1,000-strong wine list offers a good selection
from Ribera de Duero, Somantano, and El Priorat as well.