The late, great Genaro Pildain, born in what he called "the smallest village in Vizcaya Province," was the hands-down leader of Bilbao chefs, a genius of charm and simplicity. Having learned cooking from his mother, Don Genaro presided over one of Bilbao's finest tables for two decades. His business partner Carlos del Rey and chef Tomás Razquin carry on Don Genaro's tradition of generosity and hospitality. Everything's impeccable here, from the crema de puerros con patatas (cream of potato-and-leek soup) to the perretxikos de Orduña (small, wild spring mushrooms).
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