Chef Mikel Gallo's Ni Neu ("Me, Myself" in Euskera) occupies a bright corner of Rafael Moneo's dazzling Kursaal complex at the mouth of the Urumea River. The new formula here has been christened bistronómico, a term coined by French chef Sebastián Demorand to describe a less formal, family-bistro environment with more affordable and creative cuisine. Eggs fried at a low temperature with potatoes and codfish broth and pork ribs cooked for 40 hours and accompanied
by creamy chicory and vanilla rice are two examples of comfort food with creative touches. The tapas-bar section of the restaurant is an excellent value, offering abbreviated versions of dishes that appear on the menu.