Working in a 15th-century Basque farmhouse 9½ km (6 mi) northeast of San Sebastián outside the village of Oiartzun, Hilario Arbelaitz has long been one of San Sebastián's most celebrated chefs due to his original yet simple management of prime raw materials such as spring cuttlefish or woodcock. The atmosphere is unpretentious: just a few friends sitting down to dine simply—but very, very well.
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