On the far side of Monte Igueldo (and the far side of culinary tradition, as well) presides chef Pedro Subijana, one of the most respected, creative, and quirky chefs in the Basque Country. Prepare for tastes of all kinds, from Pop Rocks in blood sausage to mustard ice cream on tangerine peels. At the same time, Subijana's "straight," or classical, dishes are monuments to traditional cookery and impeccable: try the venison with apple and smoked chestnuts or the lubina
with percebes (goose barnacles). Subijana also offers cooking classes; reserve online.