Pasajes de San Juan

Generally marked as Pasaia Donibane, in Euskera, there are actually three towns around the commercial port of Rentería: Pasajes Ancho, an industrial port; Pasajes de San Pedro, a large fishing harbor; and historic Pasajes de San Juan, a colorful cluster of 18th- and 19th-century buildings along the channel to the sea. Best reached by driving into Pasajes de San Pedro, on the San Sebastián side of the strait, and catching a launch across the mouth of the harbor (about EUR 0.75, depending on the time of day), this is too sweet a side trip to pass up. In 1777, at the age of 20, General Lafayette set out from Pasajes de San Juan to aid the American Revolution. Victor Hugo spent the summer of 1843 here writing his Voyage aux Pyrenees. The Victor Hugo House is the home of the tourist office and has an exhibit of traditional village dress. Ontziola, a research center for traditional wooden boat design, is directed by Xavier Agote, who taught boat-building in Rockland, Maine. Pasajes de San Juan can be reached via Pasajes de San Pedro from San Sebastián by cab or bus. Or, if you prefer to go on foot, follow the red-and-white-blazed GR trail that begins at the east end of the Zurriola beach—you're in for a spectacular three-hour hike along the rocky coast. By car, take N1 for France and, after passing Juan Mari Arzak's landmark restaurant at Alto de Miracruz, look for a marked left turn into Pasaia or Pasajes de San Pedro.