Logroño

A busy industrial city of 130,000, Logroño's lovely old-quarter is bordered by the Ebro and the medieval walls, with Breton de los Herreros and Muro Francisco de la Mata the most characteristic streets. For tapas, Calle Laurel or el sendero de los elefantes (the path of the elephants)—an allusion to trompas (trunks), Spanish for a snootful, offers bars with signature specialties: Bar Soriano for "champis" (champiñones), Blanco y Negro for sepia (cuttlefish), Casa Lucio for migas de pastor(breadcrumbs with garlic and sausage), La Travesía for potato omelet. Ordering wine, a crianza brings out the crystal. A young cosechero comes in small glasses, and reserva (selected grapes aged three years in oak and bottle) elicits snifters for proper swirling, smelling, and tasting. Near Logroño, the Roman bridge and the mirador (lookout) at Viguera are the main sights in the lower Iregua Valley. Santiago (St. James), according to legend, helped the Christians defeat the Moors at the Castillo de Clavijo, another panoramic spot. The Leza (Cañon) del Río Leza is La Rioja's most dramatic canyon.

Logroño's dominant landmarks are the finest sacred structures in Rioja.