For a taste of life in a Basque caserío, spend a night or two in this lovely, restored, 16th-century, country manor house 1 km (½ mile) from Zumaia and an hour's walk from Getaria. Run by the Iribar family for more than half a century, the inn is a child-friendly, traditional spot with rustic exterior, modern, stylish interior, and ocean views from the sprawling garden. There are extra beds for children, and mid-week specials. The walk down to town and the hike
back will prime you for the pleasures of Basque dining. Stone walls, hand-hewn beams, sea views, and happy and helpful hosts make this a top choice.