The Perez family converted their apartment building on a leafy sidestreet in the quiet upscale residential neighborhood of Tres Torres and opened it as an exquisitely designed, homey, boutique hotel in 2011. (Primero primera refers to the flat on the first floor, where the matriarch of the family still lives.) Daughter Nuria Perez and her designer-architect colleagues did an awesome job on the makeover, keeping essential features like the spiral central stairwell
and creating a retro-modern ambiance that invites you to sink into one of the leather armchairs and relax. Rooms have twin or king-size beds and ample wardrobes; bathrooms have black slate floors, stretch-out tubs, and Gilchirst & Soames toiletries. Ask for No. 42, with a balcony and view of the street, or A-6 on the top floor, with access to the rooftop terrance. Two charming patios out front, and a garden in back with a small wading pool—perfect for kids—completes the ensemble.