There's only one drawback to this lively Basque bar between Plaça del Pi and the Rambla: it's narrow at the street end and harder to squeeze into than the Barcelona metro at rush hour. Try coming on the early side at 1 pm or 7:30 pm. The tapas—skip the ones on the bar and opt for the plates brought out piping hot from the kitchen—should be accompanied by a freezing and refreshing txakolí, the young Basque white wine with a spritzer. The dozen tables in the
back are surprisingly relaxed and crowd-free, and serve excellent Basque cuisine.