Martin Berasategui's landing in the Catalan capital comes at a moment when Spain's great chefs are in general expansion mode around the peninsula. Alex Garés, chief cook in Berasategui's absence (though Berasategui's culinary philosophy is well showcased), trained with the best (like Pellicer of Àbac and Manolo de la Osa in Cuenca's Las Rejas) and serves an eclectic selection of Basque, Mediterranean, market, and personal interpretations and creations. Expect whimsical and playful appetizers to deepen to surprising and serious combinations such as foie and smoked eel or simple wood pigeon cooked to perfection.
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