This café was founded in 1897 by a quartet of Moderniste artists—the Bohemians of their day—whose work still graces the walls. The restaurant in back offers a range of traditional Catalan dishes, but the cooking is uninspired and overpriced, and the service is perfunctory. Stick to the front room, which hasn't changed a jot since a promising young painter named Pablo Picasso had his first exhibition here in 1899; linger over a drink, order some of the offerings—pa
torrat (slabs of country bread with tomato and olive oil), anchovies, cured ham, potato omelets. Keep a sharp eye on your valuables though, and you'll have successfully sampled an important bit of local cultural history. The building—Casa Martí (1896), by Moderniste master Josep Puig i Cadafalch with sculptural detail by Eusebi Arnau—is a treat in itself.