A mythical artists' café, this is where Picasso had his first exhibition in 1899. Surrounded by colorful Toulouse Lautrec-like paintings by Russinyol and Casas, the café offers variations of pa torrat (slabs of country bread with tomato, olive oil, and anything from anchovies to cheese to cured ham or omelets), while the restaurant serves the full gamut of fish and meat dishes. The building itself, Casa Martí, by Moderniste master Puig i Cadafalch and sculptural detail by Eusebi Arnau, is the best treat of all.
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