Pungent and seedy around the edges but elegant and neoclassical in design, this symmetrical mid-19th-century arcaded square is bordered by ocher facades with balconies overlooking the Fountain of the Three Graces and lampposts designed by Gaudí. Restaurants and cafés, sadly identifiable as tourist traps by the photo-menus (the only good one is Taxidermista), line the square. On Sunday morning, crowds gather to sell and trade stamps and coins. After dark the square is a nightlife hot spot, starring Jamboree for jazz and disco, Los Tarantos for flamenco, and Glaciar for young beer-drinking internationals.
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