Fermin Gorría's place, now run by his son Javier, is quite simply the best straightforward Basque cooking in Barcelona. Everything from the stewed pochas (white beans) to the heroic chuletón (steak) is as clean, clear, and pure as the Navarran Pyrenees. The Castillo de Sajazarra reserva '95, a semisecret brick-red Rioja, provides the perfect accompaniment at this delicious pocket of Navarra in the Catalan capital.
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