Across the Guadalquivir from central Seville, Triana used to be the gypsy quarter. Today it has a tranquil, neighborly feel by day, while its atmospheric clubs and flamenco bars throb at night. Enter Triana by the Puente Isabel II (better known as the Puente de Triana), built in 1852, the first bridge to connect the city's two sections. Walk across Plaza Altozano up Calle Jacinto and turn right at Calle Alfarería (Pottery Street) to see a slew of pottery stores and workshops. Return to Plaza Altozano and walk down Calle Pureza as far as the small Capilla de los Marineros (Seamen's Chapel), home to a venerated statue of Mary called the Esperanza de Triana. Head back toward the river and Calle Betis for some of the city's most colorful bars, clubs, and restaurants.
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