The Fortaleza de la Mota,or the "Hilltop Fortress," as it's known today, was installed by the Moors in 727 and sits imperiously at an elevation of 3,389 feet, dominating not only the town but the whole area for miles around. Spectacular views of the peaks of the Sierra Nevada are visible on the southern horizon. During the 12th century the city changed hands frequently as the Moors fought to maintain control of the area. Finally, in 1341 Alfonso XI conquered the town for good, adding Real (Royal) to its name. It remained of strategic importance until the Catholic Monarchs took Granada in 1492—indeed, it was from here that they rode out to accept the keys of the city and the surrender. Hundreds of years later, French forces left the town in ruins after their retreat in the early 19th century. The town itself was gradually rebuilt, but the fortress, consisting of the alcazaba (citadel) and the abbey church that Alfonso XI built, were more or less ignored. Up until the late 1990s, it was possible just to drive up and look around—exposed skeletons were visible in some open tombs on the floor of the church.
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