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Eating out is an intrinsic part of the Andalusian lifestyle. Whether it’s sharing some tapas with friends over a prelunch drink or a three-course à la carte meal, many Andalusians eat out at some point during the day. Unsurprisingly, there are literally thousands of bars and restaurants throughout the region catering to all budg
Eating out is an intrinsic part of the Andalusian lifestyle. Whether it’s sharing some tapas with friends over a prelunch drink or a three-course à la carte meal, many Andalusians eat out at some point during the day. Unsurprisingly, there are literally thousands of bar
Eating out is an intrinsic part of the Andalusian lifestyle. Whether it’s sharing some tapas with friends over a prelunc
Eating out is an intrinsic part of the Andalusian lifestyle. Whether it’s sharing some tapas with friends over a prelunch drink or a three-course à la carte meal, many Andalusians eat out at some point during the day. Unsurprisingly, there are literally thousands of bars and restaurants throughout the region catering to all budgets and tastes.
At lunchtime, check out the daily menus (menús del día) offered by many restaurants, usually three courses and excellent value (expect to pay €8–€15, depending on the type of restaurant and location). Roadside restaurants, known as ventas, usually provide good food in generous portions and at reasonable prices. Be aware that many restaurants add a service charge (cubierto), which can be as much as €3 per person, and some restaurant prices don’t include value-added tax (impuesto sobre el valor añadido/I.V.A.) at 10%.
Andalusians tend to eat later than their fellow Spaniards—lunch is 2–4 pm, and dinner starts at 9 pm (10 pm in the summer). In cities, many restaurants are closed Sunday night (fish restaurants tend to close on Monday) and in inland towns and cities, some close for all of August.
Just around the corner from the Basílica Menor de San Ildefonso, one of Jaén’s two Michelin-starred restaurants has local chef Pedro Sánchez pushing the standard for local food very high. The three tables plus barstools have a direct view of the kitchen, so you can watch the tasting menu being prepared. Dishes vary depending on the season, but might include riñones de choto con caviar (kid goat kidneys), puro champiñón (an extraordinary mushroom sculpture), or natillas de coco, miel y trufa (coconut custard with honey and truffle).
Calle Reja de la Capilla 3, Jaén, Andalusia, Spain
Exquisite Andalusian food with a contemporary twist is served at this somber yet elegant restaurant with three small dining rooms, all with cherrywood-paneled walls and dramatic contemporary artwork. Try the arroz de cigala y espárragos verdes (rice with crayfish and asparagus) or bacalao con crema de espinacas y garbanzos fritos (cod with spinach and fried chickpeas).
Locals and visitors rave about this tiny bar less than 10 minutes' walk north of the cathedral. It's one of the oldest bars in the city (established in 1912), has just two tables plus bar space, and is crammed with Jaén memorabilia—but the homemade dishes more than make up for the lack of elbow room. The free tapas that come with every drink are tasty and generous, and menu highlights include rabo de toro dehuesado con jamón (deboned oxtail with ham) and ventresca de atún rojo (red tuna belly).
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