About 15 miles to the west of Harris lies the abandoned island of St. Kilda. Dependent on the flesh of the fulmar, the cliff-dwelling seabird, the population of this most westerly of all the islands lived
in the harshest conditions. By 1930 the 30 remaining inhabitants left their village on the small plain above the immense cliffs where they had once climbed in search of the fulmar forever. Cruises to this frozen-in-time place depart from Leverburgh and take three hours; you then have four hours to wander the island. Costing £190, the tours are operated by Kilda Cruises (www.kildacruises.co.uk) and Sea Harris (www.seaharris.co.uk).