74 Best Sights in The Northern Highlands and the Western Isles, Scotland

Applecross

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The most exciting way to reach this small community facing Skye is by a twisting, turning coastal road, which leaves the A896 just a few miles south of Shieldaig; simply follow the brown sign marked "Wester Ross Coastal Trail." A series of hairpin bends corkscrews up the steep wall at the head of a corrie (a glacier-cut mountain valley) and over the Bealach na Ba (Pass of the Cattle). There are spectacular views of Raasay and Skye from the bare plateau on top, and you can brag afterward that you've been on what is probably Scotland's highest drivable road.

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Assynt and Coigach

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To the east and south of Lochinver lies a different kind of landscape: a vast region of brooding mountains and languid lochs, where peaks punch their way out of heathered terrain and appear to constantly shift positions. Even their names have a more mysterious air than those of the bens (mountain peaks or hills) elsewhere: Cul Mor, Cul Beag, Stac Pollaidh, Canisp, Suilven. Some hark back to Norse rather than to Gaelic—a reminder that Vikings used to sail this northern shore. The highlight of the region is the eerily pretty Loch Assynt, peppered with tiny wooded isles, but the Coigach Peninsula northwest of Ullapool is equally dramatic.

Calanais Standing Stones

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The west coast of Lewis is rich in prehistoric sites, and the most famous of these is the Calanais Standing Stones. Believed to have been positioned in several stages between 3000 BC and 1500 BC, this arrangement consists of an avenue of 19 monoliths extending northward from a circle of 13 stones, with other rows leading south, east, and west. Ruins of a cairn sit within the circle on the east side. Researchers believe they may have been used for astronomical observations, but you're free to cook up your own theories. The visitor center has an interesting exhibit on the stones, a very pleasant tearoom, and a gift shop.

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Castle Varrich

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Standing on a high rocky outcrop, overlooking both the town and the Kyle of Tongue, Castle Varrich (or Bharrich) was built by Clan Mackay in the 14th century—but possibly not from scratch. It's believed an old Norse fort may have previously occupied the site. Today, a steel staircase and viewing platform make it easily accessible to visitors, who can walk from Tongue and back in less than an hour. The clearly signposted path gets a little steep in parts, but the climb is worth it for the spectacular views.

Coldbackie Beach

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This windswept bay, 3 miles north of Tongue just off the road from Thurso, is a well-kept secret, offering powder-white sands, spectacular island views, and perfect peace and quiet—so long as you don't arrive when surf's up. To get here simply park in Coldbackie and walk. Amenities: parking (no fee); water sports. Best for: solitude; surfing; walking.

Drumbeg Loop

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Bold souls journeying from Kylesku to Lochinver may enjoy taking the interesting, single-track B869 Drumbeg Loop. It has several challenging hairpin turns along with breathtaking coastal views. Head 2 miles south of Kylesku on the A894, and hang a right when you see the brown sign to "An Druim Beag." Although it's only 20 miles to Lochinver, it will take at least an hour without stops—but plan on longer, because you'll definitely want to stop. Highlights include the stunning sweep of sand at Clashnessie Bay, the beautiful Stoer Point Lighthouse, and the red-sandstone sea stack known as the Old Man of Stoer (not to be confused with the Old Man of Storr on Skye). The latter two are just off the Drumbeg Loop; turn right onto the small, signposted road between Clashnessie and Stoer. If you're an energetic walker, you can hike across the short turf and heather along the cliff-top for fine views west toward Lewis and Harris.

Dunnet Bay Distillery

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This small north coast distillery proves that Scotland's craft-spirits boom has stretched to the very edges of the mainland. Run by husband and wife team Martin and Claire Murray, Dunnet Bay Distillery has gained plaudits and prizes galore for its Rock Rose gin—notable for its use of sea buckthorn, rhodiola rosea (the eponymous "rock rose"), and other coastal botanicals. The distillery also produces a superb vodka called Holy Grass. As well as selling the spirits neat, there are also fun, seasonal cocktail releases, from the gingerbread espresso martini to the winter-spiced negroni. You can tour the "wee" distillery all year round, including taking a stroll around the herb garden and greenhouse (lean down to sniff the deliciously citrusy lemon verbena). Children younger than 18 are allowed to visit and are admitted on the tour free of charge with an accompanying adult.

Eilean Donan Castle

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Guarding the confluence of lochs Long, Alsh, and Duich stands the most picturesque of all Scottish fortifications. Eilean Donan Castle, perched on an islet connected to the mainland by a stone-arched bridge, dates from the 14th century and has all the dramatic stone walls, timber ceilings, and winding stairs you could possibly desire. Empty and neglected for years after being bombarded by frigates of the Royal Navy during an abortive Spanish-Jacobite landing in 1719, this romantic Scottish icon was almost entirely rebuilt from a ruin in the early 20th century. The kitchen re-creates the busy scene before a grand banquet, and the upper floors show how the castle was transformed into a grand house. The picturesque cover of a thousand travel brochures, Eilean Donan has also appeared in a number of Hollywood movies and TV shows, from The Wicker Man to Highlander. There's a gift shop and a coffeehouse for the many visitors. The castle lies 8½ miles east of Kyle Lochalsh; you'll pass it if you're coming from the south.

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Fairy Pools

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One of the most magical sights in Scotland, the Fairy Pools are a spectacularly beautiful collection of waterfalls and plunge pools in the midst of Glen Brittle. The rocky gray landscape contrasts with the vivid blue-green of the pools, the colorful plant life, and visiting wildlife (including, occasionally, red deer) to give the environment a fairy-tale feel. You can walk to the pools from a parking lot 20 minutes away. Come at sunrise or sunset for smaller crowds and the opportunity for a truly enchanting swim—just don't expect the water to be warm. If you're willing to climb to the upper pools, you can even find some seclusion at peak hours.

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Glen Torridon

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The scenic spectacle of Glen Torridon lies east of Shieldaig; if you're following the A896 from Kinlochewe to Shieldaig, you pass right through it. Some say that Glen Torridon has the finest mountain scenery in Scotland. It consists mainly of the long, gray, quartzite flanks of Beinn Eighe and Liathach, with its distinct ridge profile that looks like the keel of an upturned boat.

Glenmorangie Distillery

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The light color and delicate floral taste of the Speyside whiskies is exemplified in Glenmorangie, one of the best known of the Highland whiskies. The picturesque distillery in Tain, 8 miles south of town across Dornoch Forth, offers fascinating tastings that reveal how the taste is achieved (the secret's in the exceedingly tall stills). The Classic Tour (£18) includes three drams.

Handa Island

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Just off the coast of Scourie is Handa Island, a sanctuary that shelters huge seabird colonies, especially impressive at nesting time. On the dramatic cliffs you can gaze at more than 200,000 nesting birds, including guillemots, razorbills, great skuas, kittiwakes, and, of course, crowd-pleasingly colorful puffins. Sturdy boots, a waterproof jacket, and a degree of fitness are needed to walk the path around the island. This remarkable reserve, administered by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, is open only in spring and summer. Get there on the Handa Ferry ( www.handa-ferry.com)—in reality, a small open boatfrom Tarbet, 3 miles north of Scourie. It runs Monday to Saturday and costs £20 per person.

Inverewe Garden

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A highlight of the area, Inverewe Garden has lush plantings tucked away behind a dense barrier of trees and shrubs. This is all thanks to the warm North Atlantic Drift, which takes the edge off winter frosts. Inverewe is sometimes described as subtropical, but this inaccuracy irritates the head gardener; do not expect coconuts and palm trees here. Instead, look for rarities like the blue Himalayan poppy. The garden, located 6 miles north of Gairloch, is also a haven for wildlife, with Scotland's Big 5 (the red squirrel, red deer, otter, seal, and golden eagle) all found around here.

Isle of Harris Distillery

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Opened in 2015, this island distillery rapidly gained a reputation for its distinctive gin, infused with coastal botanicals including sugar kelp. Its first malt whisky, called The Hearach (the Gaelic term for an inhabitant of Harris), is currently maturing in bourbon barrels. The distillery conducts guided tours (£10) every weekday from March to October—call to book in advance.

Loch Maree

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Southeast of Gairloch stretches one of Scotland's most scenic lochs, Loch Maree. Its harmonious setting, with tall Scots pines and the mountain Slioch looming as a backdrop, is regularly visited by red deer, as well as the endangered pine marten (a member of the weasel family)—though they're just as likely to be hanging around the trash cans as in the trees. There are few official parking places along the loch, but these are nestled between the trees with limited views, so be prepared to park and climb to a better vantage point.

Pulteney Distillery

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Unusually for a distillery, Pulteney is situated very close to the town center, and it has been for almost 200 years. The spirit produced here, known as "gold," was once in the shadow of the town's other big "silver" industry—herring fishing. But, despite a hairy period of prohibition, it has easily outlasted its competition. The brooding brick distillery is open for tours and tastings, so join the standard one-hour tour (£10) for a behind-the-scenes look at the facilities and a taste of the award-winning 12-year-old Old Pulteney—famed for its smooth, faintly briny character with a lingering, butterscotch-sweet finish. Or, for £25, experience all this plus additional tastings of three older expressions.

Sandwood Bay

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Sandwood Bay is one of Scotland's most spectacular—and most isolated—beaches. The only way to reach it is to walk 4 miles each way across sheep fields and sand dunes. It's a lovely, fairly easy walk, and while it's not quite the hidden gem it once was, leave early and you're still likely to have the long, sandy beach, with its dramatic sea stack Am Buachaille, all to yourself. To get here turn off the A838 onto the B801 at Rhiconich (14 miles southwest of Durness), then turn off at Kinlochbervie to Balchrick. Just before you reach the latter, look for a tiny white sign to "Sandwood," then follow this single-track lane to its end, where you can park and start walking. Plan for a four-hour trip in all, including a good amount of time on the beach. Amenities: parking (no fee). Best for: solitude; walking.

Smoo Cave

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This atmospheric cavern, hollowed out of the limestone by rushing water, feels like something from a fantasy novel. Located a mile east of Durness, the combined sea-and-freshwater cave, complete with gushing waterfall, can be reached via a steep cliff stairway from the Smoo Cave parking lot. But don't start your descent before reading the explanatory boards at the top of the stairs: they tell the history of those who lived and used the caves in much earlier times. From April through October, 20-minute boat trips (£10) into the cave's inner chamber are available. Once you've climbed back up to the parking area, cross the road for a view down into the cavern from atop the waterfall.

St. Clement's Church

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At the southernmost point of Harris, in the village of Rodel 3 miles southeast of Leverburgh, lies St. Clement's Church—the most impressive pre-Reformation House of God in the Outer Hebrides. The large cruciform church, which sits atop a small hillock, was built around 1500. Head inside to see the magnificently sculpted 16th-century wall tomb of the church's builder, clan chief Alasdair Crotach MacLeod of Dunvegan Castle.

St. Kilda Village

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This crumbling, wind-ravaged village is the last remnant of the community that lived on Hirta for thousands of years. For most of that time, the St. Kildans lived in utter isolation, with the abundant birdlife providing the bulk of their diet. But, in the 1830s, visiting missionary Reverend Neil Mackenzie decided to improve living conditions on the island and raised funds for the construction of this street of Hebridean blackhouses, along with a church, manse (minister's residence), and school. Today, visitors to St. Kilda can walk in and around the village buildings, with one house containing an informative museum telling the incredible story of island life through pottery, textiles, and photographs.

The Blackhouse

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In the small community of Arnol, the Blackhouse is a well-preserved example of an increasingly rare type of traditional Hebridean home. Common throughout the islands as recently as the mid-20th century, these dwellings were built without mortar and thatched on a timber framework without eaves. Other characteristic features include an open central peat hearth and the absence of a chimney (hence "blackhouse," from all the soot). Inside, you'll find half the house designated for family life, complete with many original furnishings, and the other half a stable for animals. Opposite is the White House, built later when houses were no longer allowed to accommodate humans and animals together.

The Quiraing

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A spectacular geological formation of rocky crags and towering stacks, Quiraing dominates the horizon of the Trotternish Peninsula. It's about 5 miles beyond Kilt Rock, so for a closer look, make a left onto a small road at Brogaig by Staffin Bay. There's a parking lot near the point where this road breaches the ever-present cliff line. The road is very narrow and rough, so drive cautiously. The rambler's trail is on uneven, stony ground, and it's a steep scramble up to the rock formations. In ages past, stolen cattle were hidden deep within the Quiraing's rocky jaws.

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Torabhaig Distillery

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Opened in 2017 as Skye's second-ever licensed distillery, Torabhaig debuted its single malt four years later. And just like those from Skye's first distillery, Talisker, the whisky is smooth, rich, and wonderfully peaty. Come for a tasting in the comfort of the beautiful courtyard, flanked by the old stone farmhouses where the magic happens. You can also join a guided tour of the distillery, though note that it's a small operation; don't expect photo ops in barrel-filled warehouses. If you have time, stroll from the distillery down to the pretty, ruined Knock Castle, a former stronghold of the Macdonalds.

Traigh Luskentyre

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One of Scotland's most spectacular beaches, Traigh Luskentyre is flanked by rolling sand dunes on one side and the shimmering sea on the other. Add in the distant peaks, the lush grassland, and the rocky islets, and there are few better places on Lewis and Harris for a windswept walk. To reach the beach, drive 8 miles south of Tarbert on the A859, then turn right at the sign to "Losgaintir" (Gaelic for Luskentyre). Amenities: parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: solitude; sunset; walking.

Achmelvich Bay

This beautiful white-sand beach, 4 miles northwest of Lochinver, is a popular summer spot with water babies, from kayakers to windsurfers, as well as landlubbers who delight in the surrounding hiking trails and climbing opportunities. It's also a favorite of fishers, dog walkers, and "rockpoolers." In summer, expect a bit of a traffic jam to reach the beach, then a fight for a parking space. The beach is considerably quieter outside of peak season. Amenities: parking (no fee); water sports. Best for: walking; windsurfing

Off B869, Lochinver, Highland, IV27 4JB, Scotland

An Lanntair

This fabulous arts center hosts exhibitions of contemporary and traditional art and frequent traditional musical and theatrical events in the impressive auditorium. There's also a cinema, a gift shop, and a café-bar serving coffee and snacks alongside fine international and Scottish fare.

Kenneth St., Stornoway, Western Isles, H21 2DS, Scotland
01851-708480
Sights Details
Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.

Ardvreck Castle

Beside Loch Assynt, 11 miles east of Lochinver on the fast road to Ullapool, stands the striking Ardvreck Castle. A onetime Clan MacLeod stronghold built in the late 1500s, this atmospheric ruin sits on an outcrop with perfect views the length of the loch in both directions. You'll find a parking area directly opposite the ruins. From there, you can take the muddy path down to a stony beach and then walk along to the castle.

Armadale Castle, Gardens & Museum

As the name suggests, this attraction has three distinct strings to its bow: a romantic, ruined castle; a lush, flower-filled estate; and a fascinating museum of local island history. The castle is a windswept 17th-century mansion house built by the influential Clan Donald, while the extensive gardens cover 40 acres, offering magnificent views across the Sound of Sleat to Knoydart and the Mallaig Peninsula. The highlight, however, is the fascinating museum, which tells the story of the clan and its proud title, the Lords of the Isles, with the help of an excellent audiovisual presentation. There's a gift shop, restaurant, library, and center for genealogy research. Also on the grounds are high-quality accommodations in the form of seven cottages, complete with kitchen facilities. Access is from Armadale Pier, where signs indicate the different forest walks that are available.

Attadale Gardens

A little over halfway between Shieldaig and Kyle of Lochalsh, this 20-acre estate centered around a striking 18th-century house makes for an energizing break. Highlights here include the historic Sunken Garden, the atmospheric Old Wood, and the peaceful Japanese Garden. Kids will also enjoy following the sculpture trail, with a range of eclectic animal figures by artists from around the world; look out for the distinctive wild-cat pointer on the sundial. Climb the steps up from the Old Rhododendron Walk for stunning views of the estate and beyondon a clear day you can see the Cuillin Hills of Skyethen grab a drink and snack in the DIY tearoom. You can also reach Attadale by train from Kyle of Lochalsh or Inverness; the station is just outside.

Balnakeil Craft Village

Artisans sell pottery, leather, weavings, paintings, chocolate, and more from their studios at Balnakeil Craft Village. It's a charmingly odd place consisting of rows of shabby former military buildings located on an unnamed road running northwest from Durness and framed by dramatic views of Balnakeil Bay. The village is open during the summer, with most shops open daily from 10 to 5.