City Merchant. If you have a penchant for fresh and flavorful cuisine, head to this welcoming spot with simple but traditional furnishings, including white tablecloths, dark wood, soft lighting, and tartan carpets. The secret is the kitchen's use of only local ingredients. You can sample the tasty cuts of venison and beef (including a fillet with haggis mousse), but seafood remains the star attraction. The mussels and oysters from Loch Etive are wondrous, as is
the sea bass. There's a relatively inexpensive selection of wines and a wonderful cheese board that's served, as the locals like it, with oatcakes, celery, and quince. A two-course lunch special is a bargain at £12.50. 97–99 Candleriggs St., Merchant City, Glasgow, G1 1NP. 0141/553–1577. www.citymerchant.co.uk. No lunch Sun.