This may not be the cheapest Chinese restaurant in town, but it's certainly one of the finest and most formal. For a start, the meticulously sculpted vegetables that accompany the hors d'oeuvres seem almost too artful to eat. Succulent king prawns or duck with mashed prawns in an oyster sauce readily attest to the kitchen's skill in preparing excellent Cantonese and Szechuan cuisine. Its reputation means that the restaurant can get very busy, so do make reservations, especially
on weekends. For the best value, try the £9.50 two-course menus served between noon and 2:15.