Down an innocuous-looking flight of stairs, this intimate restaurant is the type of place the locals love: flickering candles, mix-and-match crockery, and food that is inventive, inexpensive, and original. The menu reads like a comedic narrative, with descriptions like "traditional fish and chips, battered to death" served with "beans today, as the peas don't want to cook." Worth trying are dishes such as hearty portobello-mushroom burgers with extra-thick potato chips or black pudding with bacon, Parmesan cheese, and apples. The chef uses only local ingredients, so the menu changes daily. A tea shop upstairs serves wonderful cakes.