Café Gandolfi. Occupying what was once the tea market, this trendy café draws the style-conscious crowd. Wooden tables and chairs crafted by Scottish artist Tim Stead are so fluidly shaped it's hard to believe they're inanimate. The café opens early for breakfast, serving croissants, eggs en cocotte (casserole-style), and strong espresso. Don't miss the smoked venison or the finnan haddie (smoked haddock). There are daily specials, too, like the John Dory
fillets served with clams and garlic butter. The bar on the second floor is more intimate and much less busy—and lets you order from the same menu. 64 Albion St., Merchant City, Glasgow, G1 1NY. 0141/552–6813. www.cafegandolfi.com.